How To Paint Concrete Floors - Learn Everything You Need To Know

Thinking about painting your concrete floor? Let's get started!

Painting a concrete floor might seem like a big job, but with the right guidance, it’s easier than you think. (Quite fun in fact)

Whether you're transforming your dusty garage into a showroom, brightening up a workshop or adding a layer of protection to your industrial floors, a fresh coat of paint makes a big difference. 

In this step-by-step guide, we're going to walk you through exactly how to paint a concrete floor so you can get that professional-looking finish without the stress.

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Why paint a concrete floor? Benefits you might not have considered

You might be wondering if it's worth all the effort. A floor is a floor at the end of the day so what's the point in painting it?

Well, painting your concrete floor isn’t just about making the area look nice (although you'd be surprised at how much difference a coat of paint can make) there are many benefits you might not have thought about:

Protection from damage - Concrete is tough, but it’s not invincible. Bare concrete is porous so it will quickly absorb oils, chemicals, and moisture. A good concrete floor paint will seal the surface, shielding it against stains and wear over time.

Cost-effective - Compared to other hard flooring options like tiles or wood, painting an existing concrete floor is incredibly budget-friendly. You get a professional finish for a fraction of the cost.

Dust-proofing - Unsealed concrete constantly sheds dust, also called laitance. By painting the surface you lock that dust away, making it much easier to keep the area (and whatever you store in it) clean. 

Improved durability - For areas with regular foot traffic, vehicle traffic and heavy equipment a tough floor coating like an epoxy paint, acts as a barrier to reduce wear and lengthen the life of the concrete underneath.

Safety and hygiene - Painted floors are easier to clean, more resistant to bacteria growth, and can be applied with an anti-slip finish to increase slip resistance where needed.

It looks great - Doesn't matter if it's a factory floor, or your own private garage, a smooth glossy finish makes the whole area look brighter and more professional. 

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Concrete Floor Painting Checklist: What to check before you start

Ok, so you've decided that you do want to paint your floor. Great!

Next there are a few key questions to ask yourself to make sure the job goes as smoothly as possible.

What size is the area you're painting?

It doesn't have to be exact down to the millimetre, but the more accurate the better.

Measure the length and width of your space and multiply them to work out the area in M².

This is important because it will give you an idea of how much product you will need to buy for accurate coverage.

What condition is the concrete surface in?

We'll get into more detail on how to properly prepare each type of concrete surface for the best results later, but at this point we just want to know what we're up against.

Take a closer look at your floor to see what condition it's in.

New concrete - Generally concrete should be at least 2 months old before painting.

Bare concrete - Concrete that has never been sealed or painted before will need to be washed and acid etched to provide a key.

Previously painted concrete - Check for grease/oil stains as well as loose or flaking paint, these areas will need to be thoroughly cleaned or sanded away to make the surface sound

Power floated concrete - If the floor has a power floated finish then it may need to be shotblasted before any coatings are applied to give the paint a texture to grip to.

Damaged concrete - If your concrete is covered in cracks and holes, or has large uneven patches, then the damage will still be there after you've painted.

Best to repair any imperfections at this stage with solid repair products.

Is the floor inside or outside?

Air and surface temperature are hugely important for the curing process of most floor paints.

Be sure to check the datasheet to confirm if your paint is suitable for the application you intend, you may need to use heaters or wait for warmer weather.

What type of traffic will the floor be taking?

Heavier traffic requires stronger solutions. If the paint will be subjected to heavy footfall, forklifts or parked vehicles, then a more durable Epoxy Resin Paint is definitely the way to go.

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Choosing the right concrete floor paint

Not all paints are created equal! Picking the right coating for your area is key to a long-lasting finish.

Here’s a quick breakdown of the paints available at floorsaver as well as some of the other options you may come across.

Single Pack Polyurethane Floor Paint

Great for general use and ideally suited for areas with light to medium traffic.

Single pack means it’s ready to use straight out of the tin, so no mixing required. 

These paints have great coverage and due to their low price are the best value for money when painting large areas.

2-Pack Epoxy Resin Floor Paint

Two part epoxy paints work by mixing a resin base with a curing agent, leaving you with a tough protective layer once cured.

Epoxy Resin Coatings are much stronger than single pack paints, they can handle heavy traffic, resist chemicals and are strong enough to park vehicles on without lifting.

100% Solids Epoxy Resin Coatings

An even stronger type of Epoxy Resin Coating that contains no water or solvents.

The result is an incredibly thick, durable layer that is even more resistant to impact, abrasion, chemicals etc.

100% Solids formulations are generally more expensive and needed for extreme industrial settings.

Polyaspartic Floor Coatings

Polyaspartic paints are ideal for specialist applications as it cures incredibly quickly, has flexible qualities and can be applied in cold conditions.

Chlorinated Rubber Floor Paints

This is a flexible paint often used in areas that might get wet or need a bit of resistance to chemicals. Great for car park line-marking.

Anti Slip Floor Coatings

For areas with a high risk of slipping, you may want to consider an anti slip paint. To achieve a non-slip finish, the aggregate/grit can either be pre-mixed into the paint or sprinkled on and rolled in while the paint is setting.

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What you'll need to paint your concrete floor

Now we've got all those checks out of the way, let's make sure you have the right gear.

Tools and equipment

A stiff broom - For sweeping and cleaning the concrete.

A spouted jug or watering can with rose head attachment - For evenly applying your cleaner.

A wire brush or scraper - For removing stubborn dirt.

12" heavy duty paint roller and extension pole - For floor paint application.

Note: This is not the time to be using the old roller that you paint your walls in the house with. Epoxy paint is much stronger than typical emulsion paint, so you'll need a specialist roller that won't leave fibres as you roll, and a reinforced frame that won't snap on you mid job.

A paint tray or paint scuttle - To mix/hold the paint (Make sure it's wide enough to fit your roller).

A paint brush - For cutting in around the edges.

Protective nitrile gloves and goggles - For safety.

A mixing blade - For proper mixing we recommend our reusable drill attachment.  (You can get away with a stirring stick, but it is hard work as you need to curing agent and resin to be thoroughly mixed)

Masking tape - For clean edges and to protect walls from splatter.

A mate - Many hands make light work.

Old clothes and shoes - Trust us, this stuff isn't washing out.

Kneepads - Entirely optional, but could save your knees while cutting in.

We've collected most of the tools you'll need in one handy painting kit which you can pick up for a reduced bundle price. If you're only missing a few things, we sell tools separately too.

Paint, Preparation and Repair products

Of course you can source similar products elsewhere, but we know ours best, so we'll be using them as an example.

Floorsaver Pourable Concrete Filler or Floorsaver Mouldable Concrete Filler - For repairing cracks, holes and imperfections before painting.

Floorsaver Pourable Concrete Leveller - For large uneven areas that need to be resurfaced prior to painting.

Floorsaver Cleaner & Degreaser - For cleaning grease, grime and dust.

Floorsaver Floor Etcher - To clean/open up the pores of smooth bare concrete.

Floorsaver Universal Concrete Primer - A base coat to prepare porous concrete and improve paint adhesion.

Floorsaver Epoxy Floor Paint - For a durable and professional looking finish that won't break the bank.

For a less hard-wearing finish i.e. no vehicle traffic you could instead use Floorsaver Floor Paint which is our single pack alternative.

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Preparing your surface - The most important step

Start by clearing the area, getting rid of any equipment or furniture that doesn't need to be there.

We wouldn't recommend painting in sections because it's very difficult to control the spread of dust. It's much less risky to clean and then paint the entire space in one go.

We'd also recommend gathering all your tools now so you don't waste any time searching once you get rolling.

Make repairs before painting

As we said earlier, before you paint, you have to fix your canvas. Painting over a hole won't hide it, you'll just be left with a painted hole! 

Taking the time to repair now ensures your new floor will look smooth and professional when you're done.

Cracks

Small cracks are common. Use a dedicated crack filler to smooth these out. It’s usually a simple two-part mix that you trowel into the gap.

Holes

For deeper potholes or wide cracks you’ll need a pourable filler or a repair mortar. These dry rock-hard and can be painted over.

Uneven surfaces

If your floor is rough or pitted, a self-levelling compound (or screed) should do the trick. Once poured on the surface, it flows to create a perfectly flat base for your paint.

Be sure to check manufacturer's guidelines that the screed you use can be painted. All of the self-levellers we sell can be painted over.

Cleaning and surface preparation

Concrete floors can have many different types of finish. As every surface is different, we cannot list them all here, but as a rough guide we've outlined most examples of common concrete finishes below.

If you're not sure give us a call or open a live chat and we'd be happy to help.

Sand and cement screed

A common type of surface in garage spaces. It isn’t actually concrete at all and should be treated differently.

Sand and cement screeds tend to be very porous and sometimes quite weak crumbly surfaces.

If the water soaks in quickly, we'd recommend applying our Universal Concrete Primer first to seal it and ensure good paint coverage.

Painting directly onto an overly porous surface will greatly reduce coverage and increase the amount of paint needed.

Existing concrete

An older concrete floor (over 2 years). Still bare, but not usually dusty, and possibly worn smooth in some places.

This type of surface is usually quite easy to paint, it simply requires a good clean to remove any contaminants.

Before getting started, treatment with our Cleaner & Degreaser will help to prepare this surface by removing any dirt, grease or oils.

Previously painted concrete

If the surface has old paint on it already, you'll need to check its condition. 

If most of the previous coating is still sound and firmly attached, then there’s no need to remove it.

Simply abrade the surface to create a good key (texture) for adhesion, then after sanding, clean the area with our Cleaner & Degreaser before applying new paint.

If the existing paint is loose or flaking, we recommend diamond‑grinding the surface to fully remove the old coating.

New paint will only adhere as well as the layer beneath it, so if the previous coating is already failing, any new finish applied on top is likely to peel away with it.

You can rent a floor grinder from most tool hire shops.

New concrete (Green concrete)

Newly laid concrete must be fully cured before painting. Even if the top surface feels dry to the touch, moisture deeper in the slab will likely still be evaporating and needs somewhere to go.

Painting too soon will trap the moisture, but it will continue to rise, eventually forcing the coating off. 

Curing times vary widely depending on concrete types and the depth it is poured at. We'd recommend letting it dry for at least 2 months.

If you can’t get guidance from the contractor or manufacturer, a general rule is to allow 1 day of drying per millimetre of depth before applying any coating.

If you cannot wait for the concrete to dry, a Damp Proof Membrane (DPM) can sometimes be used to block moisture, but you must check it’s compatible with your chosen paint.

Once fully dry, the bare surface can usually be coated. However, new concrete often has laitance (a weak, dusty top layer formed during curing). It appears as persistent dust or a surface that marks easily.

Laitance must be removed by mechanical abrasion (grinding or shot blasting) or with an acid etcher to neutralize any alkalinity and expose the harder concrete beneath. After this, the surface can be painted.

You could still do the 'The Porosity Pint Test' to check the porosity and decide whether a primer is needed.

Power floated or Polished concrete

A power‑floated finish is increasingly common and provides a smooth, decorative surface. It’s created by machines with rotating blades that compact and smooth the concrete shortly after it’s been laid.

Unfortunately, this dense finish makes painting difficult because coatings cannot properly soak in, leading to poor adhesion. The paint may look fine at first, but will soon peel off in large patches.

Do a quick 'Porosity Pint Test'. If water sits on the surface for several minutes without soaking in, the concrete is likely too dense.

Painting is not recommended unless the surface has been mechanically prepared or a primer specifically designed for power‑floated concrete is used.

Always ensure any product you apply is compatible with your chosen paint.

Surface type summary

• Sand & cement screed – treat with Universal Concrete Primer.
• Existing concrete – lightly abrade, remove loose paint and debris. Then clean using Cleaner & Degreaser.
• New concrete – remove laitance using Floor Etcher.
• Power floated concrete – cannot be painted unless prepared correctly.  

How to properly clean your concrete

The process of applying Floorsaver Cleaner & Degreaser or Floorsaver Floor Etcher is largely the same so as long as you're clear which you need to use, the steps are as follows:

Start by giving the area a thorough sweep with a stiff broom. Work from back to front, sweeping all loose dust, dirt and surface laitance away.

In this step you are looking to remove any loose material, to leave you with a sound substrate that won't peel up after you paint it.

After you've swept the floor, a quick vacuum couldn't hurt either.

Now you're ready to apply your cleaner. In this example we're using Floorsaver Cleaner & Degreaser. 

Measure and dilute the solution, according to the datasheet, in your spouted jug or watering can. 

Next, pour out the cleaner onto the floor and distribute it evenly with your (now clean) broom.

For heavily stained areas contaminated with grease or oil, you can pour the undiluted concentrate directly.

Leave for 5 minutes to work and then flush with clean water scrubbing each section as you go.

You can repeat the cleaning process as many times as necessary. Once cleaned, flush again with clean water until no product remains.

Leave to dry.

Depending on the temperature, this could take a day or longer. You could use heaters to speed up the process.

Acid etching bare concrete

Remember, you should only use an acid etcher on bare concrete. 

The purpose of an acid etcher, like Floorsaver Floor Etcher, is to neutralise any alkalinity in the bare concrete, as well as open up the pores allowing the paint to adhere.

It also doubles as a cleaner and so can be applied in the same method we have described above.

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How to apply concrete floor paint (Step-by-step)

Now we've decided on the type of paint and done all the necessary prep work, the hard part really is out of the way.

Final checks before painting

Make sure that the floor is dry and that the surface temperature is suitable for the product you are using. If you're not sure give us a call and we'll be happy to help.

Mixing (For Epoxy Floor Paint)

If you are using a 2-pack epoxy, open your resin and curing agent tins and give them each a stir separately with a mixing stick.

Now pour the contents of the smaller resin tin into the larger curing agent tin, making sure to scoop out any product clinging to the edges.

Mix the two components thoroughly using your mixing paddle and a drill. Do not skip this step! Poor mixing means the paint won't cure properly. 

If you are applying an anti slip coating, add the correct amount of aggregate now and mix again.

Decanting your paint

We always recommend decanting your paint into a plastic scuttle to give yourself the longest working time.

The chemical reaction between the two components has now begun, so you're against the clock. Check the product's "pot life" on the datasheet, this is how long you have to apply the paint before it becomes unusable.

If you're using a single pack paint, we'd still recommend giving it a good stir before pouring it out but any paint you don't need can be stored in the tin and used another time.

Cutting in your edges

Use your brush to paint around the edges and corners of the room where the roller can't reach. 

If you've managed to convince someone to give you a hand then it's a good idea to split up and have one person cutting in and one person rolling.

Rolling out the floor paint

Make sure you know your exit and then, starting at the back, work your way systematically across the floor.

Dip your roller into the scuttle, roll off any excess against the textured area and then apply the paint to your concrete in even strokes.

If you've calculated your coverage correctly you should have plenty of paint to use so don't stretch it too thin. Apply generously to give yourself good coverage and proper protection.

Be careful also not to overwork the paint as this could leave an uneven texture once cured.

If you've managed to avoid painting yourself into a corner, you should be done with your first coat. Congrats!

Watching paint dry

Check the tin or datasheet for drying times. This can vary depending on the paint you've used, your surface and the air temperature. 

Ideally the floor should not be trafficked between now and the application of your second coat.

If the floor must be used, we'd recommend very minimal traffic and giving it another clean with Cleaner & Degreaser before applying the second coat.  

Do not leave more than 5 days before applying your second coat.

This will effectively leave you back at square one and you'll have to treat your surface as previously painted and abrade it again.

Applying the second coat

Most concrete floors need two coats for a solid, opaque finish. Apply the second coat exactly like the first. 

And there you have it. You're now the proud owner of a professionally finished concrete floor.

How to maintain your painted concrete floor

You've put in all the effort so minimal regular aftercare will help keep your floor looking great for years to come.

Regular cleaning

Sweep the floor regularly to remove grit, which acts like sandpaper under your shoes.

A soft broom is usually fine, but if you have any Cleaner & Degreaser left over you can also dilute some of that to give it a proper wash now and again.

Spot repairs and ongoing maintenance

If you start to notice any cracks or signs of wear it is best to repair them sooner rather than later. Damage left to worsen over time can end up being dangerous, not to mention more expensive to fix. 

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Ready to paint your concrete floor?

You should now be equipped with all the info you need to paint your concrete floor like a pro.

Concrete Floor Paint is a simple solution that:

• Saves you money by protecting your concrete.
• Increases safety with line marking or the option for anti slip coatings.
• Looks impressive. Whether it's applied in a facility seen by visitors and employees, or your personal garage at home, it's the easiest way to completely transform an area.

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Talk to the Floorsaver Team

Thanks for reading. If you have any questions at all, we'd love to hear from you!

You can reach our team in any of the ways below:

💬 Live Chat - Talk to our team in seconds using the button in the bottom right corner (you may need to turn on cookies)

📧 Email: info@floorsaver.ie

📞 Call: 0818 543 250

🌐 Or get in touch through our Contact Page

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